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It did have an air-conditioner with the reassuring buzz of a diesel tractora small table-top fridge that kept my drinks nice and warmand a tiny TV set with exotically snowy pictures from its three channels. And when I moved in I was given an enthusiastic welcome by a family of mosquitoes. You flush the toilet by bailing water into it from the adjacent tub. I have to confess that despite these comforts I was quite pleased to leave the room and stride out into the mid afternoon heat. But in the hard streets of Sumenep I was tripped up by a problem that sabotaged my grand walking plan. The people were much too friendly… in fact so spontaneously hospitable and curious that my progress slowed to a crawl.
Again and again I was waylaid and invited to chat, and the chat always included the compulsory ceremony of group photographs using mobile phones. A large black akik opal ring, typical of the rings currently fashionable for men in Indonesia. My first stop was about a hundred metres from the hotel. I walked past a street side workshop where an artisan was squatting on the footpath trimming coloured stones akik with a small circular saw. Beside him a display counter was loaded with opal-stone rings. Customers could choose a raw stone and have it shaped, polished and fitted to their preference, or they could choose a ready-made ring.
There is something of a mania for akik rings in Indonesia at the moment. They are especially popular with men who believe they confer protection and special powers on the wearer. A tray of akik rings on sale in Sumenep. He wanted to talk religion. Madura is one of the most strongly Islamic regions of Indonesia. Its brand of Islam is conservative and closely bound up with the power of traditional religious leaders called kyai who rule with iron authority over mosques, religious schools and social life. On the two nights of my stay in Sumenep I was blasted out of bed at 3. Nevertheless, as my head cleared and I relaxed into the rhythms of the incantations, I felt — as I always do — a powerful affection for the music of Islam.
It is an ambience as public, as comforting and as beautiful yes… beautiful, even when distorted by screeching, tinny, pre-dawn loudspeakers as Islamic architecture, dress, food, etiquette, calligraphy, decoration etc. Dayat, the youthful akik salesman, turned out to be an amateur sociologist and theologian. He stumbled into an apology for the tarnished reputation of Islam. But Islam is a community and extremists have come from that community, so they are Muslims. Unfortunately Dayat had adopted some of the premises of this rhetoric. With Dayat, the akik salesman who felt ashamed of the violence committed in the name of Islam.
In front of the gate I fell into conversation with two young women, visitors from Pamekasan about 50 kilometres away in central Madura. Rennie, aged around 25, was wearing a full length black shift with her head swathed in a close-fitting, black hijab scarf. She radiated a forbidding aura of nun-like severity. Her younger friend Ita was also dressed in irreproachable Islamic style but her clothes were more colourful, even a bit trendy. They wanted to take a photograph of the tall, grey-haired foreigner doggedly plodding the streets of Sumenep with a rucksack on his back. They used their mobile phones, of course.
When I suggested a reciprocal photo on my camera, Rennie glanced around nervously and declined, presumably out of religiously inspired modesty. But Ita had no such scruples. She handed my camera to her brother and simply commanded him to take a photograph of her and me. When Rennie saw the image her resistance evaporated and she solemnly but very willingly joined us. Moments later, looking at the images, she even let out a delighted laugh, although her chaperone was frowning. I pose with Ita left and Rennie right in front of the big entry gate leading to the Grand Mosque.
Religious bigots take note. If you allow smart-phone technology and social media into the fortress of your ideology, sooner or later they will escape your control and bite you where it hurts. Eventually though not always immediately new media will subvert your messages.